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Sharp minty notes are at the heart of this unique fragrance with just a tinge of wasabi root entwined with lemon, cinnamon bark, fig leaf and pine needle. This wonderful zesty combination creates a fabulous uplifting and cooling atmosphere!
The Obvious Tips:
Just like us, wood wicks can be temperamental and each one is unique. All of our wood wicks are made with a natural and untreated double-ply wood and can vary slightly in their thickness and grain. This will cause every Mojo Candle Co. Brew Candle to burn a little bit differently.
Despite these variances, wood wicks provide a more unique burning experience than a traditional cotton wick like with our Wine Bottle Candles. Who doesn't love a good crackling fire? Well, similarly, double wood wicks make a pleasant, soft crackling sound!
The Important First Burn
The first burn plays a huge part in caring for your candle. When lighting your Mojo candle for the first time, allow the wax to melt all the way to the edges of the container. This creates what is called a wax "pool." This pool helps to prevent tunnelling and promotes an even burn each time you light the candle and ensures the best scent throw. An uneven wax pool can drown the wick & cause lighting problems so please burn in 2-4 hour increments.
Why won't my wood wick light?
No worries! This can be an issue on the odd occasion with wood wick candles and can easily be resolved.
If your candle extinguishes the first time you light it, simply try relighting it until it catches. Sometimes it may take multiple lights.
We had this happen to one of our many, many tester wood wick candles in our showroom which took about 8 goes for the first light to ignite the wood wick. Each subsequent burn was perfect and took the flame straight away.
So persistence will pay off for those odd few candles which can be hesitant to ignite on their first-time burn!
It keeps going out!
If you are experiencing a wood wick's flame that dwindles, flickers or burns out – you may be experiencing the candle reaching a knot or discrepancy in the timber. These flaws aren’t always visible and can cause the wax to be less effectively drawn through the grain of the wooden wick. In a standard lighting situation, wood wicks can take a few goes to get started as mentioned previously but once lit, should burn beautifully.
If you're having trouble, try using a click-lighter or BBQ lighter and hold the flame to the wick, allowing a little pool of wax to melt at the base of the wick, extinguish the flame and allow to cool off for a minute or so. Use a paper towel or napkin and absorb excess wax on and around the wick. Discard tissue. Wait another minute and then relight the candle.
It burned perfectly the first time, why am I having trouble re-lighting it?
One of the main reasons a wick won’t stay lit is that the candle was not burnt correctly on the first burn so ensure you have read the Important First Burn section.
Always trim your wick! Wood wicks need to be short. Trim all of the burnt pieces off - wick trimmers are the easiest way to trim wicks and prevents the burnt debris from blackening your fingers or surroundings.
For relighting, tip the candle, and relight on an angle. This will allow the flame to slowly reach across the wick.
It is easiest to use a click-lighter or BBQ lighter and burn the wick allowing a little pool of wax to melt at the base of the wick, extinguish the flame and allow to cool off for a minute or so. Use a paper towel or napkin and absorb excess wax on and around the wick. Discard tissue. Wait another minute and then relight the candle.
What is "Tunnelling" and how do I prevent it from happening?
Does the melted wax pool extend all the way to the jar edge or is there a build-up of hard wax around the edge of your jar?
And when burning your candle, does the melted wax seem to tunnel down the wick rather than melt evenly out to jar’s edge?
This is called tunnelling. The main reason tunnelling occurs is that the candle was not burnt long enough during the all-important first burn, creating a crater which will affect the next time you burn your candle and the long-term burn time of the candle.
Do not try chipping away the extra wax around the edges to fix the tunnelling. If you allow your candle to burn for longer periods of time, this problem should fix itself.
Avoid Blowing Out Your Candle
It seems unusual but you should never blow out your Mojo candle! This can cause the wax to spray onto your skin or table, smoke to fill the room, the container to crack or soot to form around the edge of the container. Use a candle snuffer or candle tweezers to extinguish the flame. You can either put the candle out but simply squeezing the flame with the candle tweezers or by gently dipping the wick into the melted wax.
Don't Cry Over Spilt Wax!
There's no need to fret if you accidentally spill some candle wax. The cleaning process is simple. Make sure that you leave the wax to cool and harden before trying to remove it from a surface. Once hardened, cover the wax with newspaper, paper towel or brown craft paper. Lightly press down onto the paper with an iron on low heat. The spilt wax will then melt and be absorbed into the paper.
When To Stop Burning
We recommend a maximum time of 4 hours for each burn. It's also a good rule of thumb to stop burning your Mojo candle once the wax falls below approximately 3cm from the bottom of the vessel. Burning with only a small amount of wax remaining can cause the base of the glass container to overheat. To avoid cracks or any damage to the surface surrounding the candle, we recommend discontinuing use at this point.
Correct Storage Of Your Candle
To protect your candle from fading or discolouration, we recommend always storing it in a cool, dry place and away from direct sunlight. This doesn't affect the burning of the candle but can sometimes cause the creamy colour to turn yellow.